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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.